Calibre I

Time-only

Calibre I

The foundational piece. A manually wound time-only movement with a subsidiary seconds dial at 9 o'clock. The dial is a single slab of grey-black Grand Feu enamel, fired three times to achieve a depth that photographs cannot capture.

The Calibre I began as a question: what remains when everything unnecessary is removed?

The answer is a movement of 187 parts, assembled by a single watchmaker over four months. The bridges are hand-bevelled with an angle iron, not a machine. The mainspring is wound by hand. The power reserve indicator sits at 3 o’clock, a small hand over a blued steel arc.

The Dial

Grand Feu enamel is fired at 800 degrees Celsius. It shrinks. It warps. It must be refired until it lies flat, and then refired again with the applied indices. Of every ten dials that enter the kiln, three emerge without blemish. The rest become material for the next attempt.

The applied indices are 18-carat white gold, polished to a mirror finish on one face and brushed on the sides. In direct light they vanish into the dial. In raking light they glow.

The Case

39mm in diameter. Satin-brushed on the sides, mirror-polished on the lugs. The transition between finishes happens at a single line, ground by hand to a precision of a tenth of a millimetre. Water resistance to 30 metres. Water resistance is not the point.

On Wearing It

The Calibre I is a watch that disappears on the wrist. Until someone notices it.

Specifications / LUM-001

Movement Manual-wound, in-house manufacture
Diameter 39mm
Power reserve 72 hours
Complication Hours and minutes
Complication Small seconds at 9 o'clock
Complication Power reserve indicator

Delivery: eleven months from commission date. Price includes personal handover in Geneva.